There had been a massive thunderstorm in the night, lightning flashed, periodically illuminating the pockets of sky under the dense rainforest canopy, accompanied by the booming rumble of clashing clouds and rain. All I could think was “Will we find the gorillas come morning? Will they stay in the same nest the tracker left them in?”
My alarm blared promptly at 5:00am, and I set about getting ready to trek into the Marantaceae forest to find one of the three nearby Western Lowland Gorilla families with a local tracker and our guide. After a spot of tea and a biscuit, we began walking from the lodge up the pathway to where the tracker had left the Neptuno family – named for the adult male silverback, the previous evening.
Our tracker led the way, using his machete to cut a path, occasionally stopping to listen for indications of movement in branches or where a whiff of musk was strongest smelling. Trekking groups are intentionally limited to four guests, as a quiet and calm approach is essential for a non-threatening introduction, we are entering their territory – and their breakfast table.
The moment finally came when our tracker gave the signal. We donned our protective facemasks (necessary for the gorillas’ protection against illness) and waited. First came the sounds, scuffling of flora being pushed aside and low grunting, the family was conversing on how best to handle us newcomers that arrived. Finally, a young male gorilla emerged in front of us – a scout, who warily eyed us as he crossed and then barked, calling forth the unseen & unheard adult secondary scout who appeared from behind us – surprising even the tracker! Both passed us assessing our reaction, and as we passed their inspection a grunt slowly brought all 18+ gorilla family members into view.
Bringing up the rear was the silverback, Neptuno, whose silver fur covered his entire back and rear, down to his flanks. Significantly larger than any of his other family members, he was an imposing figure as he observed his troop cross the road to begin their foraging. A younger male approached his side, potentially “Pan” the orphan gorilla that Neptuno is remarked to have raised on his own. The smaller blackback growled playfully as he moved forward, urging his adoptive father on as if to say, “come on, the humans are surely impressed”.
We observed them for an hour as they found the tastiest leaves, climbed trees to pick fruit, and played before they disappeared into the heart of the forest, Neptuno at the rear.
Ever onwards,
Grace Oken
