On our first scouting trip to Madagascar, we knew we wanted to go where so few had been before: Tsingy de Namoroka National Park. This remote area is known for its unique limestone formations or “Tsingy” which translates to “where one cannot walk barefoot” and the endemic lemur and bird species that evolved to this landscape millions of years ago.
After a little post-arrival siesta at camp, our group set off on our first activity; an afternoon hike to look for wildlife, which started with learning about a species of termite that feeds on and creates their mounds from grass – a favorite protein source for many of the birds. Onwards we trekked until the landscape changed from savanna to forest. Crunchy leaves on the ground indicated it was the dry season in September and meant that we had a better chance of spotting the smaller sized lemur inhabitants who mostly eat the leafy vegetation of endemic trees.
It wasn’t long before we reached the towering tsingy, sharp-edged from years of rainwater degrading the top layers of limestone, that created narrow caverns and cooler temps underneath for the forest creatures to nest in. We spotted our first lemur directly on the path – a solitary Sportive, tucked into a tree hollow. Normally nocturnal, our small friend was a bit dazed upon being awoken but was relaxed as we passed by and let us observe close.
As golden hour arrived, and sunlight streamed through the canopy, we came across a gathering of Red Lemurs scattered on several branches, their long tails hanging down in the breeze. They deferred to the biggest male lemur of the family, and when he assessed a lack of threat from our group he called out and resumed his perusal of leaves.
The sun began to set, changing to a deep orange, and we left the forest to emerge on a wide stretch of tsingy in which miraculous thousand-year-old Baobab trees had formed and grown, roots reaching down past the rock to reach the earth; and which also happened to be the special location of our sundowners! A stunning setting to enjoy a drink, watch the stars appear and appreciate the ancients that came before.
Ever onwards,
Grace Oken
