Safari Reports
Gorillas on the 4th of July
A Duffle & Compass exclusive safari 
with 14 travelers
July 1-12, 2009 in Rwanda & Uganda
By Carol Oken
Anticipation was in the air as we assembled in the pre-dawn darkness before heading out to the park headquarters where we would meet our specialist guides. What a great job to have! Leading people up into the misty forests -- home to the last remaining mountain gorillas on the planet -- and bearing witness to their experiences! Our group of eight gathered for a briefing about the Amahoro (which means peace in the local language) group of gorillas. 
I had been training for the trek, which can be steep, muddy and take hours. As we set off into the cultivated fields which are terraced by the local communities, I was ready! The porters carried our backpacks of rain gear, water and lunch and the guides set a comfortable pace on the gradual rise through the fields. We scrambled over a rock wall and officially entered Volcanoes National Park, our excitement growing as we moved through the lush mountain gorilla habitat. Our guides and porters helped us navigate the steep climb, and thoughtfully stopped frequently so we could catch our breath. Soon they were using pangas (an African version of machete) to cut a pathway through the tangle of vines. The atmosphere was fragrant with flora growing in the warmth of the sun.
We had all mentally prepared to trek for hours, but after less than an hour we suddenly came upon the Amahoro group trackers who announced that the gorillas were feeding nearby. We were astonished to be here already. The trackers escorted us making throaty, “gorilla language” grunts to assure the gorillas that we were not a threat. They positioned us to have a great view of the silverback sitting in a clearing in the midst of wild celery and stinging nettles. I recall that my initial thoughts were that we were closer to him than I had imagined was allowed. And he was really huge and truly magnificent. We soon saw other members of the family as they fed on a variety of leaves, vines and shoots, while the younger rascals played. They were our hosts and we were today’s honored guests. We stepped aside when they wanted to move past and backed away if they ventured too close. All too soon, an
hour had past and we bid them farewell.
Making our way down the slopes, the glow of the experience fresh, I knew I’d not forget this morning. It was exhilarating. And the knowledge that I’d get to visit another gorilla family the next day was really awesome!
